A former latin american exile writes about life..

Ok so I gave up a comfy boring life to go live in South America. Lots have suggested that I write about my experiences, so here it finally is.

Thursday, June 30, 2005

laundry time

My washing machine would not start the other day when I tried it. I was dreading the possibility of having to have it repaired - sure to be an expensive hassle. I asked around the neighborhood at various stores and they all told me that the neighborhood "lavadero" is in Parque Posadas and that it was fairly cheap.

I went to ask tonight about the price. YOW. Not cheap at all. The lady showed me the boxes she measures the quantity of clothing in - and the quoted price of 70 pesos a box to wash and dry.

Fortunately my washing machine started when I tried it this evening. I was motivated by the high price quoted - I estimate if I took all my laundry to this business I would spend another 1.000 pesos a month on that or drastically have to change my habits of what I wear and how many times I wear it before I decide its dirty... So since its working right this instant I did like four loads of wash. Anything to stave off the repairman - or the expensive washing service. I spend way less than that on the power for the machine, the soap, and I guess I have time to mess with clotheslines and clothespins - at that price.

Wednesday, June 29, 2005

mints, anyone

Eat yer heart out, you American bitches that are reading this... Y'all pay a buck for each packet of Certs mints. I just bought five packets for 30 cents - or ten times less than you pay! Live in the 3rd world awhile and you learn what things really cost and how big the markup is up north.

dogs

One should never consider buying a dog in Uruguay. They can be had for free in the street. You simply need to feed them.

whoops, I learned a new phrase for urgent today

...en una manera prioritario....

Yeah, cool. Got ten other things to do that are "urgent" too - get in line, buddy.

ROTFLMAO

Monday, June 27, 2005

on urgency

There are various ways of expressing urgency in Spanish.

Ya
Ayer
Cuanto antes
a la brevedad

Am I missing many?

I doubt it. I get tons of emails during the working day that are all "urgent." So lets analyze this... if I have ten urgent things in the queue, and I get an eleventh - is it really "urgent?" It's just as much in the queue as the other ten things, right?

Maybe its a cultural thing, I don't know. If you live all your life in a place where the practice of customer service by companies is not only dead, but probably never born yet, then maybe when you go to work within a company you might have the skewed idea that you should tell everybody that everything is urgent, even when its not? (Customer service by small businesses is quite good, assuming you are asking for something they do 1.000 times a day. But if they have more than, oh, three employees its a different deal.)

But I have set my sights on and declared war on the practice that everything is "urgent."

Anyway, a situation arose at work where a workgroup all uses a particular server. The workgroup doubled in size but the server was an afterthought. Of course, when the server ceases to function under all the load, I get the call. The "urgent" call. But they're all urgent...

So I go along with the request to "monitor" the server even though it needs a priest (last rites) more than it needs a technician. I "monitor" it, make a change that seems to make sense - but since I did not ship a magic wand down here to magically upgrade hardware I cannot do more than that. Meanwhile The Powers That Be finally make a decision and then actually the purchase related to that decision for a new server. Meanwhile I am offering to move databases temporarily to other servers but it gets pretty much ignored.

Well, the new server arrives last week. But I'm working on another "urgent" request having to do with a cellphone that cannot get electronic mail, for one employee - meanwhile an entire workgroup is suffering this server that's completely snowed under. Ok, whatever.

So Thursday morning it shits the bed again and I get another visitation from the project manager or whatever the hell it is he does... and he's all fired up about the server being unavailable again. This evolves into an eventual lecture, by him, in front of his boss - about the need to keep a keyboard and mouse plugged into the server at all times because "I don't know if you know this, but sometimes when you plug the keyboard and mouse into the machine after it's booted up, it sometimes doesn't recognize it." Hmm.. thanks for the tip, buddy but I did pick that up in the previous ten years of working around this stuff. Any other little gems and I'll check with ya, m'kay? So during the course of getting the keyboard and mouse plugged into it (it was "urgent") I unplug the power to the domain controller as well as one and only mail server for the company. At that point this dickhead's boss is lecturing me about "You need to be more proactive" about server maintenance.

POW TO THE MOON. (and it explains my previous entry from last Thursday...) Given that I don't have authority to buy hardware or even initiate the process, I think offering to move databases is pretty damn proactive!

And this is coming from the same guy who should have bought a server (and is technically qualified enough that he should foresee the need) along with hiring his new employees.

So this morning when plug-in-the-keyboard-guy descends upon me again and insist I do something NOW/cuanto antes/ya/a la brevedad/ayer about the failed server all I can do is offer to reboot it - which will temporarily alleviate the problem for an hour or two. I tell them quite clearly its overloaded and there's nothing more I can do - and the response is a series of statistics that, if you boiled down into a smart search phrase for Google, would result in a number of articles about servers they are indicating they are overloaded.

However, offered the opportunity to reboot, or not... no choice is made so I do nothing. Performance is slow until everyone goes to lunch, over the lunch hour the poor thing recovers, and life goes on.

And plug-in-the-keyboard-guy has now stopped speaking to me, which is perfectly fine.

The moral of the story... urgency is fine and good in an emergency but it shouldn't be your "plan A" when your lack of planning has exploded on you.

Oh well, off to the gym to work off all this frustration.

Thursday, June 23, 2005

Unfocus your eyes a bit…

Riding the bus is always interesting to see how the drivers or whoever has the bus “decorated.” A common feature is internal turn signals so the passengers can get an idea in advance of impending changes in direction, assuming of course the driver uses his turn signal. The turn signal indicators are obviously handmade from either ceramic tile or plastic and have been drilled on a drill press for the placement of the LED’s that are installed in some shape… you can tell because the placement isn’t quite precise. There are two tiles with LEDs in the shape of arrows on either side of the spot where you see the posted capacity of the bus (why they bother to post anything, I don’t know…) and then on this bus someone has created two additional hand-drilled tiles with LEDs in the shape of the Mercedes logo that are next to the arrows.

Then of course there’s the translucent sticker on the glass between the driver and the seat behind him with the stylized drawing of Jesus with the cross and the sun behind him.

And to round it out the big speakers for the radio – you need not bring your walkman on this bus… with the “Pointer” logo prominently silk-screened on the sides of them. What, you’ve never heard of that brand? Me either… but if you unfocus your eyes it looks like the Pioneer logo.

"proactive"

Next person that suggests I be more proactive, within the next 24 hours, gets a black eye.

Wednesday, June 22, 2005

smoke, anyone?

The air is thick with it. It's going to be a cold night and visibility on the street is less than three blocks due to all the woodsmoke from all the fireplaces and quematutti that are in use. Not good for one's asthma to be sure.

But whatever, so what if my eyes sting a little and my whole house smells like smoke (and I don't have anything wood burning, that's how bad it is) - I passed my damn test. One more to go and I have the most up to date MCSE certification until Microsoft releases something new. ;)

crazy telecom prices...

To put in perspective how breathtakingly expensive local telephone calls are, the company I work for bought voice over internet hardware to interconnect the phone systems at two downtown Montevideo locations. I haven’t seen the costs associated with it, but I’m sure the return on investment will be realized within six months, if not three.

Sweaters and sweater vests...

Are a wonderful way to avoid ironing. If the sleeves and collar are in half ass okay condition, it doesn't matter if you washed and dried the dishes with the rest of the shirt. So long as the collar and the tie are sticking out, no one is the wiser.

Miami box

Last night I was distracted from studying by a couple of new magazines – last month’s issue of Wired as well as the June 13th issue of US News and World report. I don’t know how I did it but I kept my focus on studying the arcane binary math that you need to know to manually do IP subnets… But tonight after my test I will sit down and read both from cover to cover.

Wired is likely not available here at any price. If it was, it would likely be more than ten dollars. I know there are international versions of various US news magazines available at high prices in the kiosks on 18 de Julio, but these are the real deal.

From day one, I noticed a flood of US magazines on various people’s desks in my office. I figured people were buying them on overseas trips but then I asked my boss about it and he explained about Miami box. I knew Canadians went to great lengths to obtain US postal addresses, mostly to subscribe to satellite TV, but I didn’t know that the rest of the world does it too.

I was skeptical about the cost at first (still am, sort of) but I took the plunge and subscribed. Yesterday when the package showed up I saw my name, and the bill, and what looked like one copy of Wired magazine… the bill was for six bucks and I thought, free magazines, my ass… But on the way home I noticed the other one in the package and felt a little better about the price.

Still waiting for the first of my other magazines to show up, I’d subscribed to four. One of them is Maxim, it appeals to the misogynist in me, I don’t know why. The other is GQ, to get a reality check on what’s in style in the rest of the world.

Expatriate voting

There’s a topic I never know or cared about before, but its something interesting. Sunday night I was downtown MVD and saw/heard what was obviously political advertising on a caravan of vans and trucks going down the main street – yet there was no scheduled election in Uruguay.

Turned it out it was for an election in Spain. Lots of locals can vote because they have Spanish passports and Spain allows expatriate voting. I later read an article about how the election skewed to the left as a result of the expats.

Its interesting that the residents of a country can be outvoted by people who in some cases have never been there! At first I didn’t understand Uruguay’s policy of not letting their expat residents vote, but after reading that now I do.

Monday, June 20, 2005

Jorge Drexler

Hmm... I've started to get to know more about the local music and have decided I like the music of Jorge Drexler. When the guy won an Oscar recently and the whole country was all agog, I was like, mmm... big deal ok. But now that I've had a chance to get to know four of his CD's by way of a new friend, well, it's grown on me. I need to listen hard to understand the lyrics of the songs but that's ok.

Now if I could just shake this propensity to get sick... late fall/early Winter is nasty here. The temperature is all over the place and today its been largely sunny... but humid. And to go to the doctor? A hassle today it seems. I went to Abitab three different times and their computers were down, which means no ticket to go to the doctor because the clinic requires one for a visit but they don't sell them. And if I was well enough to be out in this cold to go to one of the clinics where I can pay them directly and then wait two hours to see a doctor - well I would be well enough to put on a shirt and tie and go to work, now wouldn't I. Yes, of course I could call them and have them come to my home - but thats ten times more expensive than going to a clinic. I won't do it. Besides, it might keep them from someone with a more pressing emergency than my sily sore throat! See, I woke up this morning with no voice. It came back after several cups of tea and an anesthetic throat spray but, wow, I have never been sick in my life as often as I have been living here.

The weekend went well. Had a very nice second date with someone who I might dare to feel anything about - or perhaps I have passed that point already, don't know. But I want to find out, to be sure (or SSSSSSHHHHure as I have been told I pronounce it, I find it cheeky to the nth degree when an ESL speaker decides to pick nits with my pronunciation of my own damn language), to be certain. Which means a 3rd date and I want be creative about what form that takes, within the limits of what exists here... Life is complicated.

But of course, there I go using words that are not OF my particular dialect of English. I wonder what will happen when I eventually go back stateside for a visit and use words like mobile, cheeky, wanker, etc. I have picked them up nonetheless. Whatever.

And now I am going to go the hell back to bed. It's cold in here. Better three blankets than push the on switch on the heat, too!

Friday, June 17, 2005

certifiable

Wow. I was so focused on the greater goal of MCSE certification that I about crapped my pants when an email arrived congratulating me for achieving MCSA certification (its a lesser one). But it was pretty cool, all the same. So now I am waiting for the “welcome” package with the wallet card and the certificate to show up – it will come from Singapore so I have a bit of a wait ahead of me.

This morning is NASTY. A steady stream of drizzle. The brazilian meteorologists have let me down, and I have clothing hung outside to, um, dry.

Thursday, June 16, 2005

Nothing compares to when you roll the dice and you swear your love's for me

Or, song lyrics. They had some mix CD on at the gym that either repeated a lot or the CD player wasn't being very random. I think I heard whatever track has that has its chorus at least three times while working out. And yeah, it's just fluffy dance music but hearing stuff like that does cause you to get all reflective sometimes.

I have been spending a lot of time listening to music lately, adding tracks to a CD-RW as fast as I can download them. It's a lot of fun to have a player that can hold like 800mb. Granted its not an iPod so I don't see song titles, but I get to know that in folder 1 track 54 is very good and in folder 3 track 9 and so on and so forth... I don't use the CD player while working out because I hate to sweat into a pair of headphones and its not very social as well.

But whatever... just finished chowing down on hot dogs, four of them to be exact. The workout kicked my ass. So tomorrow I start with higher weights on most of the equipment, I think. We shall have to see. But tomorrow I will hurt, for sure.

This weekend is going to prove to be very busy. It will be 100% free of work, that's for sure - just the two hours I teach English and nothing more. Otherwise it will be all about plans with friends and doing some studying - got another test on Wednesday that is proving to be some damn difficult material to get interested in.

I considered editing my previous post but decided to leave it sit and just explain what I wrote... because a friend commented to me that I said something not very nice about the Montevideo vive poster and the woman with the CD. My response to that person was... whatever... a blank CD and the time at a cybercafe to burn it cost about the same as a meal might. I'm not implying she's not going to care for her child...

But I still want to see one of those posters with the smiling guy and stack of porno DVD's. It did my heart good to see someone so happy about such hardcore porn in the middle of the street so early in the morning.

Otherwise today got off to a rocky start. I discovered upon arriving at work that I'd accidentally deleted the entire human resources database the night before... but before commiting that heinous crime (shit happens) I instinctively thought to take a backup. So it was nothing more than an hour and a half of fighting with permissions in Microsoft SQL 2000 - restored databases that have lots of user rights assigned to them and worse yet were originally started on another server... its a recipe for a headache. Fortunately I left the aspirin in my bag today so I had it.

I am happy that I do not have to iron tonight - oh, bullshit, I never iron. I will wear a sweater over a wrinkled shirt to avoid it if need be, I hate ironing that much. But tomorrow I can go to the office in jeans and a sweatshirt. Casual fridays are very casual here. I'm waiting for my washing machine to finish so that I can put the big plastic bag back over it (it's installed outside) and hang the clothes out on the roof. The one brazilian weather feed says rain within 18 hours, the other one says maybe not. I'm going to risk it, I need clean clothes! I need to find a lavadero near my house - no, not a laundromat per se but a place where you drop off your dirty clothes and they charge you per kilo to wash, dry and fold them. I've never done it before but I hate doing laundry sufficiently that it might be worth it.

My favorite new music is this...

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heavy stuff

Well, another day at work done. Off to the gym... have been doing the same workout for about five weeks and my trainer wants to do an endurance test tonight to see how we're going to increase the weight. Thus tomorrow and the day afterwards, I will be in pain. Hopefully it will be worth it this summer...

blablabla

The cat woke me this morning, as usual, at sunrise. She knows very well that if she jumps from my bed onto my desk that all hell breaks loose, if I’m awake – but she does it anyway. I cannot wait for my ex to take her. She’s very nice but she wakes me each and every single morning and I usually cannot get back to sleep. Once she’s gone it will be a very long time before I have another pet, they are a lot of work. She will wake me up by meowing in front of the bedroom door, wanting to be let out, but if I actually open the door she won’t leave unless I do too. I either have to shove her out the door and close it (so as not to let the warm air out) or I have to wait until the little bitch eventually jumps from the bed onto my desk, at which point I scream at her and toss her out the door and try to get back to sleep.

And cat food is expensive, too… or at least the food that she’ll eat. I don’t understand why you can’t use tickets to pay for it, either.

You know how in some ads, especially for tourist destinations, you see a chef or a fisherman holding up a plate or the days catch and he has a huge smile on his face? I saw the same scene this morning, except it was the owner of a kiosk on 18 de Julio Avenue holding a big stack of porno DVD’s in his hand as if they were the best thing since sliced bread. The city should put HIM on the “Montevideo vive” ad posters you see all around, with his stack of skank in hand.

The Montevideo vive posters kinda crack me up, they are aimed at tourists I think. One of them shows a woman holding a CD in her hand with a huge smile (much like the guy with the stack of porno). Of course, the picture ought to be captioned “My kids will eat less tonight because I bought this CD!” But they should show the guy with the stack of porn, I think it would be better. His smile was just as big and it was certainly genuine.

I scheduled my next Microsoft exam for next Wednesday. I want this certification thing done with by the end of August. So last night after the gym, and the grocery store, I started studying once again. There’s not much else to do after all. Dinner last night was good – I bought a big steak at the grocery store and fried it with lots of spices, and then dipped that in some A1 steak sauce that a co-worker bought me on a trip to another country. It was very good. Yep, dinner accompanied by Crónica, the crazy news channel from Argentina – and questions about TCP/IP subnets from my practice exams. I stayed awake for awhile (until 1230 am) in hopes I would see Matt online but did not have any such luck. I slept, well, great – until the damn cat woke me up this morning. Oh well, lunch time is over, back to work…

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Another test out of the way...

Another Microsoft exam done. It was damn hard. Oh well, going to start studying for the next one. There are three left and then I will have updated my MCSE credential. Its a hard process.

OUT with it already

Well in the very first post I alluded to recently ending a relationship of several years.

This weekend I met someone who I had a lot in common with. Actually two people.

The first was a friend of my crazy friend M., who she knows since childhood... A very nice lady named Marta who was very generous and welcoming, it really helped a lot to bring me out of the depressive funk I've been walking around in. What she has in common with me is, she moved to another country to be with the man she loved (as did I) but she broke up with him (as did I) afterwards and wound up alone. Just talking even for a short time with someone who'd had a similar experience helped a lot. Saturday night was really quite nice because it was M., Marta, and a friend of hers.

Marta's friend was interesting to talk with. M. and Marta both speak English, but her friend, nope. But I manage ok. It was kind of funny because Marta was going on about how there's little attention paid to animal welfare in this country (my take on that is, not for humans either!) and her friend said "Marta! Be careful what you tell him, he hasn't been her long and he might start thinking badly about our country!" I had a hard time not giggling at that. I mean, what ever could be here to cause people to think badly about the place?

But if Saturday night was like a ray of sunlight through the clouds, Sunday was positively blinding. I met someone who seems to be a lot like me in important ways. We spent nearly five hours just talking, about everything. I look forward to seeing him again.

An aspect of living here that has been frankly very daunting was my perceived lack of freedom to be somewhat open - gay's not real popular in this culture. Most of my native Uruguayan friends had basically summed it up as "nothing good can come of you being open about your personal life," so I wasn't. And being open doesn't have anything to do with mannerisms, its just the freedom to talk (or not) about who you spent the weekend with, without wondering if you should change pronouns or better yet not bring it up at all. It's diametrically opposite the way I lived in the USA, but I think I let myself get intimidated about that because I was using every ounce of my energy to just fight the day-to-day battle that is life. And meeting this guy Sunday, who doesn't give a damn what anyone thinks just the way I never gave a damn what anyone thought when I lived in the USA... that gave me the kick in the ass I needed to make the decision to write about that aspect of my life too.

Saturday, June 11, 2005

fuck the poor

That was the note on which my night out (or rather morning to be exact) ended.

I went out with my friend M., her idea was to introduce me to another friend of hers that she thought I would like, but that didn't work out so it was just the two of us.

Friday evening started out pretty much as normal, go to the gym, work out, go to the grocery store, have a little dinner, etc. and then head over to where M. was.

M. is an interesting person. I don't mention her by name because... well, you'll see in a minute. I met her when I was teaching English classes at Berlitz (awful, awful place to work). She had dark black hair, lots of black makeup around the eyes, freely admitted during class that she was a little disoriented because she'd taken pills, and would come up with these crazy sexual ideas during class discussion that I'm sure the rest of the class - four men no younger than 35 for sure - appreciated but were just sort of out of the blue and disorienting to the matter at hand, which was teaching business English. But she was there, her parents paying the super-high prices for the classes and the AOL-Time Warner product-placement laced teaching material and out of the whole time I worked there, she's the only student I remained in contact with.

M. went off to England for a period of time, her intent being to go and stay there, but was persuaded ultimately not to overstay her visa - it would mean being effectively trapped there waiting to be discovered and deported with the doors closed to most civilized countries. See, getting deported is no walk in the park... you get a big stamp in your passport much like a Scarlet Letter. Any consulate of any civilized country that sees such a stamp is not going to give a visa to that person. You can't just "lose" the passport and get another without the stamp, because most countries have agreements with others that if one of their citizens has been deported and replaces their passport, causing a number change, they will update all of the countries with whom they have good relations of the new and old number as well as the reason for the update. It truly marks one for life, a deportation... But like many Uruguayans, she has sufficient family links to European countries that with some bureaucratic doings she can get an EU passport, eventually and with a lot of patience and a whole pile of documentation. So she's back, waiting for her mother to get her EU passport, in which case M. can get the same countries passport fairly quickly.

So anyway I got home and heard the phone ringing while I was in the shower. I don't try to go get it because that would mean trying to run with wet feet across a tile floor, which is a recipe for a broken bone. Whoever it is can leave a message on voicemail. Finally they call back and it was M., wanting to give me directions to where we were going to meet - at the apartment of one of her friends. So her friend got on the phone and gave me this very complicated (overly complicated) series of directions relative to Montevideo Shopping. (The english word shopping has crossed into Uruguayan Spanish and translates as 'mall'.) I wrote it all down, looked at it and decided that I was going to roll my own directions because it appeared to be taking me somewhat out of the way. We don't have Mapquest or any of their ilk here, but there is a site called www.mapred.com where you can enter a street name, door number (literal Spanish-English translation of the Spanish term for house number), city and country and then get a map of the area, much like Mapquest. I copied the relevant streets onto a makeshift map with street names and landmarks labeled, and off I went by bus.

It took forever for a bus to arrive going in that exact direction - after 11 pm there is very infrequent bus service in MVD - but finally I was off. I was very pleased to get off the bus at the exact cross street I needed and then make my way to the destination, without the other directions that, while well-meaning, would have taken me 2km out of the way in pouring rain. The only wrench in the works of my plan was the lack of street signs at the corners, I had to make little detours at times to figure out which cross-street I'd just passed because the street name is on just about every building, but its very small and almost never visible from the corner - another reason a car is a pain in the butt here.

The apartment building was being remodeled, and being remodeled for the worse it appeared... floors here are tile, ceramic, concrete... carpeting would just rot away in no time with the humid weather conditions. But this building was putting a fake wood veneer over top of their tile floor. The job hadn't been finished and it already looked like shit with big gouges in the veneer where people had gone across with wheeled suitcases or bicycles or whatever, and they did a very bad job of matching the veneer with any stairs. It was obviously a very expensive material, but it was not suited at all for a high-traffic area like an apartment hallway.. But I digress.

M. and her friend were waiting with pizza, faina and diet coke. Faina is what they accompany pizza with here, sort of an analog to garlic bread but made of corn meal. Think corn bread, but greasy and much more dense. Sometimes its vaguely onion flavored and its always salty. It has much the same flavor as the cover of a hard-covered book, in my opinion. They had two types of pizza - the regular with just tomato sauce and no cheese and figazza which has no sauce and is covered in onions, olives and red pepper. I prefer figazza but the olives and red pepper wind up in a neat little pile on the plate when I'm done because I don't like them much.

So we ate, caught up on our lives etc. because we chat frequently on msn but don't see each other in person all that often... and off we went by cab downtown. The cab driver of course asked a couple of probing questions about which route to take - it's a test of your knowledge of the city naturally to see if he can take you out of the way and run up the meter. Our response was detailed and nearly turn-by-turn so as not to get screwed.

Well, it wound up that the club we were going to had closed, or for whatever reason was not open, nor did M.'s friend turn up. Oh well. Undaunted we walked a short distance into the Ciudad Vieja (old city) and went to a club called Kasbah. That turned out to be sort of fun in that I ran into Mary, a British aquaintance, and we had a chance to briefly catch up. Mary's... uncle or some relative is the owner of Kasbah - he'd originally opened it as a furniture store but Ciudad Vieja is not a good place for that kind of business in MVD so he turned it into a bar.

We got bored with being there after a bit and set off on the quest for a change of scenery. Ciudad Vieja is very very alive and crowded on Friday nights, much different from during the day when most of the clubs are closed and the barren streets just generally smell like piss from the night before. Chock full of cops too, but Uruguay can afford lots of cops because they pay them low wages for long hours. We wound up at The Shannon, which is MVD's only irish pub. What a strange clash of cultures... Uruguayans wearing union jack shirts and drinking green beer (which The Shannon has year round) and of course the typical menu that every Uruguayan eating establishment has... selection of Chivito, milanesa, sandwich caliente blah blah fucking blah. All of this was set to a background of predominately American pop music. Globalization produces some weird mixtures. I had a sandwich because I was hungry and M. and I talked for a couple of hours about life in general as well as laughing our asses off at some of the weird culture clash as well as laughing partcularly hard at this woman at the table next to us who was seated and wearing really low-cut jeans - so low cut that you could see nearly all of her ass and the frilly red thong underwear she had on - she was blithely unaware that she was damn near showing her junk to the whole world... Anyway, some guys at a table next to us overheard us speaking in English and asked where we were from.

Everyone is very surprised when I tell them I live here, but I'm used to that...

The conversation turned to politics of course, I am frequently asked how I voted for president. People here always like to berate whatever American is handy about the country's foriegn policy, so I make a point of telling them that I intensely dislike and disagree with the current regime in Washington, thereby avoiding hearing Yet Another Tirade about it. And then the conversation turns to Uruguayan politics. This guy says to me (in Spanish) "Here, I can't believe it. We elected communists because that's what the poor people wanted." He switched to English for just one phrase. "Fuck the poor people." And he went on and on about how the new government was going to be bad for his fathers business and blah, blah blah. I was tempted to tell him that had I had the right to vote, I would have voted Frente Amplio too in an effort to kick out the kleptocracy of the Colorado party - but decided not to because they were pretty drunk and I didn't want to start a fight.

M. and I decided we didn't want to talk with these stuck-up brats from Carrasco. Fuck the poor indeed. Jerks. So we called it a night. Rather than waiting up to an hour for a bus to show up, I grab a cab and went home.

"quince"

I finally found out what dulce de membrillo is made of. Quince is the name of the fruit in English.

Dulce de membrillo is a sort of gelatinous mass... you can slice it, its that firm. It's sweet but not overly. Myself, I don't care for it.

However, the cooked quince fruit served with vanilla ice cream is quite good.

head

Coming home from having dinner with friends, I saw a girl on the bus tonight basically dressed as a cheerleader - skirt etc. but wearing a t-shirt with just the word "head" on it. I bet her mom doesn't know the other meaning. And I'm sure that the girl does. I burst out laughing when I saw it and she smiled real big at me.

Tuesday, June 07, 2005

humidity

This warm indian summer weather is nice but damn is it humid. I had to be careful walking at the gym because the floor was wet from condensation, guess the surface was at the dew point, who knows... anyway sorta the same deal at home. Quite the opposite of winter in Minnesota where you wake up dry as a 10,000 year old mummy every morning.

Ancap lubricants in surprising places

No, not those places. Get your mind out of the gutter. On the way home from the gym I stopped at a gas station to buy a bottle of water. When I went to drink from the bottle I discovered that the bag had some sort of clear grease all inside it. Feo, feo. Would've gone back to complain but it was close to closing time at Tienda Inglesa and I needed stuff for lunch for tomorrow.

old software

I downloaded an IRC client tonight (it's a geek chat thing, the instant messaging of the 1990's but still alive and well today...) and that was a jarring experience.

It was this thing called Masquerade and a description says it added voice synthesis to the chat. I was curious about that because my dad had mentioned text to speech software to me during a phone call and I've been looking to see what his options are. Of course he doesn't want to chat, he wants to push a button and have the computer read the web page out loud.

Anyway I installed the program - uh, oh copyright 1997... and I ran it. I almost jumped out of my skin. Some female figure on the screen with an ugly perm and talking in a voice like Colossus meets Fran Drescher on Thorazine. (I can't remember the name of the movie but Colossus was a supercomputer that had taken over the world, the film was made in the 1960's.) Of course my sound was cranked all the way up since I'd been playing music so that made it all the more unpleasant.

another test out of the way...

Well this morning I knocked another Microsoft exam off the list on my quest to become a Windows 2003 MCSE. That was a relief. Incredibly difficult as much as all the information is incredibly boring too. It's so hard to just focus and study it!

A friend tells me I have occasional readers now amongst his English students. Makes me nervous wondering what the locals think about my opinions written about their country... but that's cool. Why bare your soul on the internet if not for readers?

Today has been unseasonably warm. I am sitting here in shorts and a t-shirt and actually contemplated kicking on my air conditioner but decided against it after remembering the 2.100 peso electric bill from last month. I will survive and (maybe) pay less next month, I hope?

Talked with my parents for a few minutes. They made a point of telling me that they were eating bratwurst, which I would kill to have... but that's ok. My dad was a little bit taken aback when I told him I just got done eating prime rib and baked potatoes and paid a little under three bucks for the whole meal. But I'd still kill for a bratwurst or pizza with italian sausage...

Ah well, waiting to hear back about the date for my next test. Already have the study materials for it, I want to get it done within the next couple weeks! Microsoft has a special offer between now and August where you can retake your failed test for free which so far (knocks wood) has not been necessary to take advantage of!

Off to the gym now. Debating how much additional clothes to bring with and/or what quantity of cash etc. The temperature could drop and it would be a rotten walk home... but I'll risk it.

Friday, June 03, 2005

Anatomically correct stick figures and new plastic

Tonight on the bus ride home I had finally gotten the opportunity of an open seat near the back of the bus, it was good to sit down and not have to brace myself for sudden movements. So I was idly looking around because there was nothing else to see but the inside of the bus - the windows were totally fogged up because its raining.

I happened to notice that someone, probably a child, had drawn a stick figure of a woman on the back exit door of the bus.

And an unbidden evil thought (those are the best) crossed my mind... why not add tits to the stick figure when you get off the bus?

I burst out laughing, a little. Anyone around me would have figured I'd just heard something funny through my headphones. I tried to put the thought away thinking... you are 35 years old and doing that is not very adult.

But hey, some would say that quitting your IT job in the USA and giving it all up to live in South America is not very adult.

And so it was rationalized.

So I got off the bus at the usual place. And yes, the stick figure was anatomically correct when I'd finished with it. I didn't look to see what anyone's reaction was, it would have brought on one of those moments where you start laughing inappropriately and can't stop.

Ah well, that melted away all the stress and headache of the entire day. Childish? Yep. Worth it? That too.

Otherwise in between the mindlessness of work (actually my job is not all that mindless its quite the opposite) I spent my lunch hour getting a credit card. Mastercard and Visa are pretty widely accepted, but in Uruguay if you want to go into hock at the most possible number of places you better have an Oca card. Besides, a national-only line of credit will keep my from buying things on the international card and leave that available for whatever stupid shit I can rationalize buying. Yeah, that's it. So anyway I had applied online for the card last week and yesterday I'd called them and was told, just bring proof of residence and you're all set.

Ok... the problem with that was that I have various proofs of residence. Remember, the mail and deliveries are not to be trusted. Furthermore just to make it even more fun I live in one building with two addresses. How is this possible, you ask? Ah, with bureaucracy, all things are possible including the really ridiculous. So I looked last night at which bills I had with me and thought real hard about which version of my address I put on the application for the card. Turned out that I had two bills that go to the other address of my apartment (but its the same apartment) and a third that goes to the office. So for last night it was out of the question to go handle the transaction. I needed a phone bill, because my phone bill goes to the version of the address I put on the credit card application.

I tried going to the phone company office last night to print a copy but I'd jumped the gun and paid the phone bill online with my other local credit card so there was nothing available to print. See, in Uruguay there are some aspects of your life where you have a lot of privacy and others where you have none. The phone company is one of those where you have nearly none. There are telephone company offices all over the country (all of them hopelessly overstaffed) with computer terminals where you can print a copy of your bill - or anyone else's if you know their number. To be fair, you only get a copy of the first page and you only get something if they have a pending bill - but still, you can find out the name that goes along with a phone number as well as whether that person pays their bills on time.

Now this machine is designed to be completely easy to use. It's a PC and monitor with nothing but a numeric keypad for punching in your number. Of course I was behind the stupidest woman on earth who either was having a problem reading the 72-point type or she was just dumb as a bag of shit. I was standing there thinking, christ on a cross, lady, you simply cannot be that dumb... but she was. It took her literally two minutes to punch in the nine digits of her phone number necessary to get a printout of a bill, and then another two minutes to decipher the screen that comes up if you didn't pay your bill last month and there are two pending - it asks you which one you want to print, naturally.

But whatever, she finally went off somewhere hopefully to evolve and I was able to punch in my phone number and get - nothing, because I'd paid my bill already.

So with the fresh memory of waiting behind a truly stupid person close at hand, I arrived home and located the bill that had the right version of the address to take with.

One of the offices that I have occasion to be in during the day is right near this credit company's main HQ so after a meeting I went over there. Not bad.. they asked for the bill and it was a little disconcerting when they wanted to keep my cedula (ID) behind the counter with them throughout the whole process - I would rather lose my passport than the cedula because losing my passport would mean dealing with the devil I know... And the woman told me to take a seat. And I waited, and waited.. and watched it just pour rain outside, thunder, lightning, the whole nine yards. Of the four people who were called ahead of me, three were approved and one was declined a card. So I knew the outcome when they called my name because the packet of paper that gets generated for an approval is bigger than for a NO. It was fairly straightforward.. have to confirm the due date each month, the interest rate ( a measly 69% annually - and yes, that number is missing a decimal point, thanks, it really is that high), the limit, etc. Then sign in like five different places and wait again while they pass that (still with my precious ID card) to the department that generates the plastic card. That took like five minutes and off I went with my brand-new blue OCA card with the clouds and both of my last names on it. (Lovely)

But it was interesting to watch the workers while I was waiting. All of them were wearing blue uniforms the color of the card, and no men, all women. The more status you had in the organization meant your uniform was a lighter shade of blue, I think. (or perhaps those women just worked there longer thus the uniform had been washed more times, who knows) And it was interesting to see how they had their employees clocking in and out for lunch. Uruguayan businesses do their best to put a class-act front end on their operations and OCA is no exception - but the back end is always ugly and cobbed together. The employees were clocking in and out on a pair of credit card machines hanging on the wall. They weren't using the trademarked blue cards but something else with a magstripe on it. And the machines were hooked up somewhere to a host with a serial cable so I can just imagine how pretty the closet is that has all the hardware to multiplex all that and feed it to whatever big Unix system they're running. But gotta give 'em points for reusing something they already had - verifone machines that had likely been returned or swapped from merchants.

Ah well, I grabbed my new credit card and made damn sure to get my cedula back, and off I went to go use the card to buy some english textbooks that my students will start using tomorrow morning. Or rather, my students will start using the photocopies of the books that I will have ready on Tuesday because I want to keep the originals in good shape for the next potential students, if indeed there are any.

So for today, I've defaced a stick figure and propped up the local economy. Now I'm off to the gym to work off the two milanesa sandwiches I had for lunch and all the chocolate I've eaten this week.

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

another fifty centisimos...

It's amazing how prices keep going up here. Every month, electricity costs more. Every month, fuel costs more... and now the buses in MVD have raised their price .5 UY pesos per ride.

Of course, it's all "regulated" (wink wink nudge nudge) and the price increase was ordered by the Montevideo state government.. but please, it's the same as the utility regulators in Illinois - the best government money can buy!

What gets interesting is that if you have bus tickets that are issued by your company (portions of salaries are paid in tickets, which have the same flexibility or lack thereof as food stamps in the USA) the bus company expects you to kick in a coin and they are a pain in the ass about giving change because the .5 peso coins aren't terribly common.

Good marijuana is scarce here. Perhaps its because those in charge of the economy are smoking all of it?